Note: This blog was origianlly published on www.ajarn.com.
http://www.ajarn.com/blogs/bob-sohigian/oh-boy...i-went-to-loei/
Even if it’s just for a handful of days, hopping back into
the traveling circuit is an epic feeling. I love my job and I’m happy everyday,
but there’s this euphoric buzz that runs through me every time I clip on my
Osprey bag and wedge myself onto another box-on-wheels. My muscles cramp and my
limbs fall asleep within minutes of unintentionally twisting myself into an
advanced yoga pose on these clown-car-excuse-for-buses, but it has become part
of the experience at this point.
Oddly,
there was a bus available from Tha Bo to Loei, so travel-time to our travel-hub
was quite brief – although this was the only portion of our commute that was
brief. Being in Thailand for about 6-months has allowed me to develop an open
mind when it comes to patience. The term “Thai-Time” is not just an
alliterative, clever sounding stereotyped slogan – it is as literal as the word
itself. Thais are in no rush to do anything. So, a trip that should have taken
3-hours took closer to 7. Especially on the local transit, the bus driver
always prudently picks up every person in sight on the side of the road, as
well as takes every ample opportunity to stop for snacks and smoke breaks. So,
the moral of the story is: “mai bpen rai” (don’t worry about it) – you’re in
Thailand!
It’s
always cool to people-watch and try to chat up the locals in situations like
this. I am a professional at spontaneously and chronically napping on public
transit, but even that is quite the feat for a 7-hour trip. Although guilty of
a few Angry Birds sessions from time-to-time, I try to steer clear of
technology on transit. Thailand (especially Issan) is a place where it isn’t an
anomaly to sit and observe or speak to the people around you. Yes, a large
portion of the younger generation are glued to their Smart Phones (I think at
this point “Smart Phone” is a Proper Noun…) just like the average American, but
it’s always important to take advantage of the chatty older crowd – they love
foreigners and a majority of them will spend time trying to communicate with
you. Also, once you start spending some time with locals it’s pretty incredible
how much Thai you can actually begin to pick up.
We
stayed in a great little guesthouse called, “Sugar Guest House” (pronounced
‘Soo-gar’) in Muang Loei. It’s in a prime location; has a friendly owner, Pat
(who is very good at speaking English – not very common in the Issan region);
and its cheap, yet classy rooms make it an awesome choice for a trip to this
part of the country. The city itself doesn’t have many of the bells and
whistles that accompany a backpacker on the main tourist circuit, but the
natural aesthetics in the surrounding areas make it an unsung hero in Thailand.
When you’re not bouncing around to the natural beauties that surround, there
are plenty of stellar Thai food spots (including the phenomenal food walking
street), a few entertaining watering holes, and a heaping smattering of local
vendors to keep you beyond pleased with your destination choice.
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Loei City turns into a cool water park during rain storms |
Being
that it’s August, the rainy season is upon us, which unfortunately means that
many of the national parks in Thailand close a hefty portion of their trekking
and hiking opportunities until October. When I first heard the term “rainy
season,” I initially was inclined to believe that for the entire span of the
season, it rained like it does in the movie “Rambo.” Now that I’ve experienced
and am now a part of the latter segment of the rains, I have found out that it
is the quality of the storms and not the quantity. Sometimes, it won’t rain for
an entire week, but when it rains, you might as well put your bathing suit on
if your going to be outside (which I tend to actually do). With that said, some
portions of the country experience more rain than others during this time. As
far as I know, hiking opportunities close down because of the inherent danger
that lies upon the slippery hills.
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Rickety cable-bridge in Loei City - worth checking out, but it does wobble! |
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Roadside snack - a bag of live water eels
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Now,
that does not mean that the whole area shuts down – this time of year is when
some of the wildest colors show themselves and it is a beautiful sight to see.
On our first day in town, we rented a Suzuki from Pat and shot up 201 North to
the earthy, yet progressive village of Chiang Khan. Resting on the banks of the
Mekong, Chiang Khan takes on the mannerisms of Pai, yet it is way milder and
has a significantly smaller footprint. A large portion of the architecture is
made of timber, which gives the town a homegrown vibe. Although we only spent
the better part of a day there, we still had an incredible time.
After spending the first hour
walking along a path that spans the Mekong (it seems like they have plans to
renovate the path into a walking strip that is handicapped accessible – which
is quite progressive for that area), we stumbled upon a gem of a restaurant:
Gin Sen Duh; Gin Khao Deh. Literally translated to, “We have noodles; We have
rice - this simple restaurant slogan did not do the place justice. Yes, they
had both noodles and rice, but it was so much more. Decorated with vibrant,
loud colors, the restaurant fit right in to this hipster, Thai town, but it
still stood on its own. Run by renowned chef, Mr. Korn, it took on the
atmosphere of dining in a friend’s living room. After taking our order, we
watched as Mr. Korn prepared a few dishes for the parties ahead of us. With a
calm and collective demeanor, flames flew vertically as Thai cuisine danced in
the air with a small flick of his wrist. Even with the heat of the Thai sun,
coupled with the steamy kitchen, only small beads of sweat formed around this
culinary guru’s tiny, awesome mustache.
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Chiang Khan |
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Walk along the Mekong |
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Refreshing on any day of the week - one of Thailand's 3 beer selection... |
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Please be advised: Emily did not consume any Leo beverages before riding this pink hippo. |
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Snail snagging up some waterfront property |
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Nice try you odd looking goose....we see you too. |
Mr. Korn had apparently been a
big-time chef down in Bangkok for the bulk of his career. He took a holiday
north and after his first encounter with Chiang Khan, his life-long views
changed. It was time to open up a place of his own that made a positive
contribution to a community that gave so much to him. He did just that by satisfying
local taste buds on a daily basis, and making a couple of farang feel right at
home. Dining with us on that day was the worldly Chiang Khan local, “Yo.” We
began chatting and it turned out he had some pretty epic traveling experiences
– one of those being an epic cross-country road trip across the oh-so-familiar
United States. It’s a shot in the dark, but maybe that’s why his English was so
good… While traveling, it’s circumstances like that one, which make life seem
so simple. All you need is some friendly people, a couple laughs, and some tasty
food to make all worries whisk away.
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Insert Joke here |
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Nothing better on a hot Thai day then some Pinky Sprite or Blue Ananus... |
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The man of the hour....Mr. Korn |
Along with that culinary treat,
Chiang Khan – along with Loei – have unbelievable coffee shops. Thailand,
generally speaking, can fall on both ends of the spectrum when it comes to a
satisfying and spine tingling cup of Joe. In many instances, you can find
yourself sipping on an instant cup of mahogany tinted liquid that will bring
you one step closer to maxing out your blood sugar content (if you don’t want
your teeth to rot out of your head, remember the phrase “nam tan nit noy” –
which translates to “sugar, a little.”) The coffee is cheaper at these powder
stands, but often there will be more sugar in your cup than coffee. So, when
you see a coffee shop with an espresso machine, you are in luck. In the Chiang
Khan and Loei area, there are plenty of these to choose from, all with an
awesome atmosphere, and friendly staff. Personally, a good cup of coffee goes a
long way for me, so having real coffee shops in the area is always a nice
bonus.
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One of the coolest fish tanks I've ever seen |
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Usually the rule is to not pee in the pool, but for filtration and decorative purposes I guess we'll let it slide. |
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Vintage Em |
My advice would be to leave the
coffee for the morning or the evening, and spend your days exploring the
virtually unscathed landscape that Loei has to offer. We got a chance to check
out two very cool spots: Tham Moharan (Moharan Cave) and Nam Tok Huai Lao (Huai
Lao Waterfall). Both spots were clearly labeled on the map to be located south
of Loei, right along Highway 201, so, we figured it would be easy to find. What
we found out through trial, error, and small talk with locals along the way was
that these two tourist attractions were available to the general public – you
just had to be able to read and comprehend Thai in order to find them. The
comical, yet surprisingly logical facet that my travel partner and I did not
take into consideration was the mere fact that we were indeed in Thailand. Although
it takes longer to see the sights when you can’t read the road signs and your
map is not to scale, it adds an extra pinch of fulfillment when you finally
arrive at your destination.
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The bag of bananas was a better choice than the eels... |
Tham Moharan was an especially cool
place to arrive to. Located behind a giant yellow gate (we never would have
found it if we didn’t decide to park the bike, surpass the gate, and adventure
down the long path to the cave entrance), the cave offers quite a unique
experience – it is essentially a self-guided tour. As you walk up the steps
toward the entranceway, there is a switch on the wall you push up in order to
turn the electricity on in the cave. Although it is slightly lame that electricity
is provided in the cave, there are still plenty of awesome crevices, dips, and
ducks to explore with your headlamp. There are many impressive stalactite and
stalagmite structures that will “wow” you from start to finish. Not to mention,
there is a significant bat population! As soon as you enter, you will find them
squeaking and swooping right over your head. Surprisingly, they tended to stay
in the wider caverns, but some of them were not afraid to get pretty close! So,
as you are meandering through the caverns, be wary that big bats means big
“guano.”
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Tham Moharan |
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It looks like cave art, but not exactly sure what it is... |
Located about 30 kilometers from Tham
Moharan is the captivating Nam Tok Huai Lao. Set back from the main highway,
the drive to the waterfall alone is worth the trip. Due to the dire need for a pave,
it is well advised you take your time on your way there, or you’ll end up
walking to the waterfall. The slow-route won’t bother you though because you
are surrounded by rural, mountainous Thailand, in a most-unadulterated spot.
Vibrant greens, beautiful farms, and giddy villagers swarm in this area, which
makes getting lost quite the treat on your way to the waterfall (there are a
few turns that are unmarked, so asking for directions is almost necessary).
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Bamboo |
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Nam Tok Huai Lao |
Nom Tok Huai Lao is a 9-tier
waterfall. Simply stunning from start to finish, each tier keeps you longing
for what lies ahead. Beads of sweat were dripping down my face with each step
and the humidity covered my body like a fleece blanket. Barrages of bamboo shot
up all around the forest making for nice decoration and a fun percussive
activity on the way up. When hiking in any Thai jungle, something that can
easily be overlooked (literally) is the colonies of ants that spread out
amongst the soil. It may sound boring, but it is most certainly not – the way
they work is incredible! Thailand is home to hundreds of species of ants who
are bustling about at all hours of the day, so make it a point to check them
out. Although they were a nice addition to the waterfall hike, words cannot
describe the top tiers of Nam Tok Huai Lao – so go see it for yourself!
Our trip sadly came to an end the
next day. It is never easy to come to terms with leaving a beautiful place, but
with every excursion that ends, another follows. All I can really say now is: go
to Loei, you won’t regret it!